The ancient (Shinto) shrines and (Buddhist) temples that abound in Kyoto are glorious examples of Japanese architecture. And modern Japanese architecture is among the best in the world, which has been borne out by the fact that Japanese architects are tied with Americans for the most annual Pritzker Prize winners (with eight each). (I address Japan’s greatest modern architects in a chapter in my book Japan From Anime to Zen.
Still, what tends to grab my eye over and over are the more quotidian, but no less beautiful, façades of Japanese homes. They are jammed into every street in town, especially in the largely-residential area in which I find myself staying. Some are older, and very much in the traditional Japanese/Kyoto style.
But many are much more modern, streamlined and with that very particularly Japanese blend of modern and ancient, modern materials employed with a fine contemporary aesthetic, with nods (or bows) to the latter.
Sleek, textured and always efficient – not to mentioned incredibly well-constructed – Japan’s modern houses use every inch of their frontage to impress passersby…without ever seeming to want to, of course. That, too, is part of the Japanese aesthetic.
I would post some photos of the fabulous complex where I’m staying, but the deal is that no photos of the place be posted online, as it is such a famous architectural accomplishment – by one of those Pritzker Prize-winning firms, no less – that it attracts whole busloads of gawkers, who trample the place and peer into the (very open) living spaces of the residents. Deal.
But there are many other, too many other, places to gawk at. Just wandering the streets, I see home after home that catches my eye with details, textures, clean designs, gardens and other aspects that I find absolutely delightful. Here are a few:
Kyoto’s streets are clean and well-laid out, their only real flaw being the unbelievable profusion of telephone poles and electrical wires running in great tangles along and above them. It’s the only hint that the streets are in Asia, where electrical wires are so ubiquitous that a street would look strange without them dangling above.
As always, the plantings around many houses are integral parts, even just one tree providing the perfect balance to the building. Here as in so many areas, the Japanese idea is to put one plant in just the right place, maintained and trimmed just-so, rather than the riot of foliage one might see on English and German or American properties. Over time, that one tree may become as important as the building itself.
As with so many things in Japan, I never tire of seeing these homes, so simply laid out, so in touch with texture, reverent to nature, and so unassumingly solicitous of a stranger’s eye.
As one of those strangers, I am grateful.
Minimalism is one of Japan’s great artistic and aesthetic strengths, but the Japanese are not afraid of a slightly-overgrown look…as long as it is visually balanced and meticulously maintained.
Another aspect of Japanese architecture, particularly in Kyoto, is the brilliant use of lines…the more one looks, the more one sees them. I could post two dozen examples, but here are just a couple. They can be used functionally (as a sort of see-through privacy screen) or merely decoratively. Most often they are wood, but they are also deeply grooved into the stucco surfaces of many buildings as well.
Some make it the major motif of the building…
And often, the lines are a part of the cut of the stone…
However they are designed, Japanese houses are almost uniformly well-maintained. Surfaces, even the natural ones that dominate – wood, cement, stone, stucco, bamboo – are clean and even and almost without blemish.
Honestly, I could fill four posts with beautiful buildings I’ve seen here…it is my favorite aspect of a town with a lot of things to love. The blend of ancient and modern is absolutely dazzling and functional, impressive and accessible. Here’s one more I saw just this morning, not a home, but a new commercial building that uses traditional materials and structural elements, yet looks exceptionally modern.
Heading soon to a place where the architecture is just a small part of the appeal…
Onward!
I'm loving your posts from Kyoto! There's a show on Netflix called The Makanai that's set in the contemporary geisha culture of Kyoto -- lots of shots of beautiful traditional architecture. Worth checking out, if you have a chance.